I think love should be irresistible
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Few labels bear the character's mask anymore, as the originals did, but the shape and the foil wrapping remain. Now every Italian chocolatier produces what have become known generically as gianduiotti. Their slim flatiron shape is said to recall the puppet's cap, but it was probably adopted out of practicality-the paste is too viscous to be molded in any detail. In the 1860s the company Caffarel, which still exists, wrapped the candies in gold or silver paper and gave them the name of a popular local marionette character, Giandoja, known for his merry gluttony. The chocolatiers of the Piedmont, which was under French occupation, used roasted and ground hazelnuts to extend their short supplies of cocoa solids. At the start of the nineteenth century, naval blockades imposed by the English against Napoleon reduced the supply of cacao arriving from the Americas. Like many matches that in retrospect seem destined, the combination of hazelnuts and chocolate was a result of accident-wartime shortages. I also buy chocolates for friends who celebrate Easter, and the best chocolates rely on hazelnuts to complete their flavor. By this time I was gearing up for my annual flourless baking at Passover, for which I always buy quantities of nuts. Then I got serious, calling botanists in several countries to learn more about why the nuts I tried tasted so different from one another. At local shops I bought hazelnuts from Oregon and Turkey, the two kinds commonly available here. For comparison I obtained Piedmont hazelnuts from the one U.S. I found a grower in Lazio, Carlo Torre, who is eager to export to America and who agreed to send me samples. The cookies are native to a more southerly region that produces hazelnuts-the part of Lazio around Viterbo, north of Rome, where a friend's mother makes them every year after her family harvests the nuts in their small orchard. But I needed different nuts for these biscotti, which are called tozzetti for their squat ( tozzo), thumblike shape, and which are softer than the usual biscotti, because they include olive oil (and lard, if the baker knows the farmer who killed the pig). The best hazelnuts, I had heard, grow in the Piedmont, the region in the northwest of Italy that has always been the country's chocolate-making capital and is the home of gianduia, the ingot-shaped chocolate-hazelnut candy.
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In the past year I have conducted a worldwide hazelnut hunt, prompted by my desire to duplicate a kind of biscotti unlike all others I've tasted in Italy.
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The difference was always only etymological "filbert" probably derives from the French Saint-Philibert, whose feast day falls in late August, a few weeks before the nut's harvest "hazelnut" is an Anglo-Saxon word.) ("Hazelnut" seems to have taken over from "filbert" as the general name. I didn't push my luck by bringing up ice cream, either, whose finest forms include hazelnuts. Among all nuts hazelnuts are especially high in monounsaturated fats and vitamin E, currently much in favor for its properties as an antioxidant. I'd already heard other good news about hazelnuts, which to my mind have, along with pecans, the most distinctive and elegant flavor. I didn't press the assembled experts to bless what is probably confectionary's finest marriage: hazelnuts and chocolate. And in several trials people who ate even as much as half a cup of nuts every day in place of other fats not only improved their blood-cholesterol levels but reported that they felt sated and thus less tempted to overeat. The fats in nuts are mostly monounsaturated, the kind now in favor for their cholesterol-curbing properties.
#I think love should be irresistible series
I recently heard welcome news at a conference on nuts and legumes conducted by Oldways Preservation & Exchange Trust, where a series of respected nutritionists and weight researchers heartily endorsed nuts as an everyday part of the diet. But their high fat content has made them seem a poor choice for the weight-conscious. Vegetarians, of course, often use nuts as meat surrogates, for their high protein content. I'VE never wondered why practically anything that is delicious toasted is called "nutty." The natural sugars and fats in nuts when heated provide the definitive taste of caramelization, against which seemingly everything else cooked with dry heat-even meat-is compared.